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Peak Mountain 3

Wrecking My Zen

FA Colin Aldrich, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, September 12, 2020
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Hard moves off the deck and through the roof lead to an exposed arête before the slab climbing above. The roof into the lower corner was aided during the FA. P1: 5.9 A0 G 80’  Traverse easy slab to a blocky left-facing corner at the bottom of the roof system. Make a few tricky moves to an undercling then traverse steep slab to a small roof with a hand-crack that transitions to a finger-crack. Break through the roof and climb the left-facing corner to a large right-facing corner with tufts of grass. Climb the obvious finger crack on the left wall to an exposed position on an arete. Top out on a sloping ledge and belay from a vertical crack next to a small roof on its right.P2: 5.6 PG 160’  Climb slab along the grassy crack to the bottom of a right-facing corner then traverse up and left toward an open book/stem box. Climb to its top then follow the obvious crack to its end at the huge overlap that caps the cliff. Traverse left until it peters out then climb slab to a shallow horizontal and belay.P3: 5.3 PG 120’ Continue up easier slab to an obvious wall and belay from a large tree on the right.

Location

Start:  Roughly 75’ right of Throne to the Lions. Scramble up slab to the center of the roof system on the Agharta Wall. Belay from the grassy ledge at the top of the large tree island below the brown, triangular alcove.Descent: Bushwhack right and down to the top of the Feline Wall. Rappel from sturdy tree.

Protection

Gear: Small gear to #3, heavy on the finger sizes.