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Peak Mountain 3

Moonraker Runout

FA Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Ken Hebb - June 16, 2018
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This climbs copious amounts of “moonrock” (heavily dimpled anorthosite reminiscent of a cheese-grater) and has runout sections.

P1 5.8+ R: Climb three sets of dimpled faces separated by obvious horizontals. There are slightly left rising cracks on the first face. Climb to the second ceiling and traverse left over the ceiling to a handcrack (crux). Get in crack then continue left to a right rising crack. Climb to an obvious ledge and belay. 90’

P2 5.4 G: Climb easy rock to the bottom of an obvious right facing corner with a wall to its right. 170’

P3 5.8 R: Climb the wall to a green, dimpled, runout slab. Critical gear at its bottom at a right rising crack. Run it out about 30’ and trend left to a right facing corner where the gear is PG rated. Climb corner to its top and take care of loose rock. Face climb to bottom of the overhanging ledges and belay from a crack, again taking care of loose pancakes underfoot. 150’

P4 5.7 PG: Traverse 25’ left to a wide crack in the cliffs (intersections CrazyDog’s Halo). Climb behind a large block to a ledge and traverse left to a left-facing corner with a small chockstone. Climb the corner and face climb to the trees. 90’

Rappel the Wreck of the Lichen Fitzgerald.

Location

It threads the needle between Toma’s Wall on the right and a semi-wooded buttress on the left.

Start 20’ left of Toma’s Wall which starts in the left-rising slot.

Protection

Rack up to 4"