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Panther's Pinnacle
Description
Incorporates, face climbing, crack climbing and a free standing spire on the southeastern arête of Mt. Marcy's Chimney Wall.
P1 5.6 PG (5.1 R): Climb into the off width and run it out (or bring a #6) to a chossy face with good gear. Climb to vegetated ledges and step right through a thin band of cedars to the large gully below an obvious roof. 100’
P2 5.8 PG: Climb the right facing corner with a 3” crack to its top. Step left and follow cracks up a ramp to a large flake below a seam and belay. 50’
P3 5.9 R: Face climb right with sketchy gear (runout for 15’) to a right rising handcrack that leads to steep featured ramp. Face climb up divoted slab to a 10’ tall free standing pinnacle. Climb pinnacle and step from its top to a ledge on the east side of the Chimney Wall arête. Climb ledges to the top. Belay from a 3” crack in a small cliff. 100’
Location
Start: Climb partway up a grassy fourth class gully on the southern side of the Chimney Wall. Look on the right for a couple cedar trees guarding an off width crack.
Exit: Walk left around cliff and 30’ up to a stout spruce. Rappel off south face down to the grassy gully.
Protection
Standard rack. Doubles of smaller cams helpful.
Routes in Panther Gorge
- 5Panther's Pinnacle5.9Trad