- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is one of the true gems of Panther Gorge-clean stone, diverse climbing, a seam under a multi-tiered roof system and splitter handcrack.
P1 5.7 200 Climb the dark black slab up face holds to a thin crack. Follow for about 40 to a horizontal crack. Follow a right rising ledge to the huge corner and belay at the end of the rope under small block roofs.
P2 5.9- 110 Continue up to obvious left facing corner under dominant roof system. Step left 20 to a vertical crack and climb below a cantilevered blockthe Dong of Death. Do not touch the dong. Break right back to the corner then follow the multi-tiered roof/corner system to the lip. (Critical protection above lip). Traverse right about 7 feet to obvious vertical handcrack and climb to top. Follow crack right and belay.
P3 5.7 170 Up a short left facing corner located to the right. Follow slab to large left facing corner, follow to top. Drift left and belay at tree left of grungy opposing corners.
P4 5.7 80 Climb cracks for 30 the break right for 50 through 5th class krummholz to belay at top of Wreck of the Lichen Fitzgerald. Descent: Same as Wreck of the Lichen Fitzgerald.
Location
Start: Begin in the center of the lowest section of slab on the right-hand side Huge Scoop. The route is directly to the right of Rumours of War.
Protection
Protection is great with a full rack up to #5 (though the 5 isn't critical).70 meter double ropes are recommended.
Routes in Panther Gorge
- 11The Pride5.9-Trad