Rumours of War

This is the first route in a newly documented climbing area of the gorge, the Huge Scoop, a giant rectangular depression located south of the Agharta Wall (about 15 minute bushwhack).

Route ascends a 200' long technical slab to the obvious crack in the center of the cliff and follows it until its end. This deceptively stout climb is a must-do in Panther Gorge though you’ll want to make sure it hasn’t rained for several days beforehand. Slab climbing, vertical handcracks, offwidths and a chimney all with a few awkward moves boost your heart rate!

Recommended to use double ropes for rappel to gully exit otherwise secure rappel options are poor.

P1 5.5 - 180’

Climb slab to grassy ledge below central crack (largest on the face).

P2 Crux 5.9 - 75’

Climb crack to offwidth then runout slab and belay from grassy ledge.

P3 5.7 - 150’

Continue following crack to offwidth chimney. Follow left facing corner to vertical crack. Climb and follow slab to top.

VIDEO

Shows only P1 and P2.

youtube.com/watch?v=q0iQ4Ye…

Bushwhack about 5 minutes south (climber's left) of the Wreck of the Lichen Fitzgerald. Start left of the left facing corner that dissects the slab.

The route eats gear up to 4". Runout slab at top of P2.