Tomcat

Tomcat is an uncharacteristically long line for Mt. Haystack. The diverse line follows the left-most side of No Man’s Land and incorporates a huge flake next to the most expansive slab on the mountain. The route was named by Steven in memory of Tom Wright whose kind, genuine, adventurous soul lives on in the hearts of many Adirondack locals.

Start: Approach as for Paws Off. Begin at the bottom of a narrow slide left of the large slab.  

Descent: Bushwhack upslope and find the top of a gully on the left side of No Man’s Land. It may be wise to break the descent into three rather than two full-length rappels to reduce rope drag.

P1: 5.7 PG, 150’: Climb the slide on good edges. Trend left to the gully and climb to a right facing corner. Step to the right through a narrow cedar band and onto the slab below the monstrous flake. Belay from a crack in the huge left facing corner.

P2: 5.8+ G, 70’: This is the money pitch! Climb to the flake and make an awkward move off the deck to get in the OW. Sling a chockstone placed by Steven during the FA as the first piece. Follow to its top and belay from a spacious terrace.

P3: 5.6 G 190': Climb 10’ then step left to gain a right rising crack/closed book. The crack appears mossy but there are plenty of good face moves and jamming. Step right at its top and walk through small trees to easy slab. Follow the slab right until you intersect the drainage of the wide slab below the upper cliff tier. Climb partway up the slab and belay in any number of cracks.

P4: 5.7 G 90': Continue left up the slab to the obvious right facing corner with a slightly overhanging hand crack 3’ to its left. Climb the corner past two blocks and up to a small tree.

Micro cams to #4… a #5 would be nice for the giant flake.