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Peak Mountain 3

Margin Slide

FA Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Greg Kadlecik, 2012
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

An interesting way to climb the margin of the East Face of Mt. Marcy. This enlargement of the face offers fourth and easy fifth class climbing on slab, corners and breaks through the upper cliff band of the face via a series of exposed moves to the low-angle slab at the top.

Descend by rappelling or bushwhacking south to the Old Slide (aka Pipeline) on the southern flank of Mt. Marcy.

Location

Navigate southwest toward the east face of Marcy once at the bottom of the gorge. Cross the drainage from Grand Central Slide (about 15 feet wide). Avoid a large debris field from a 2011 rock-fall on the right side of the face. Hug the bottom of the face on easy terrain until you're about 100 feet away from the southern edge--a slide that forms the margin of the face.

Either start on the same line as Ranger on the Rock and traverse south or begin amongst the rising corners at the bottom of the slide.

Protection

Standard rack or simply friction climb the slide.