Wreck of the Lichen Fitzgerald

A tribute to the Edmund Fitzgerald and lichen so prevalent in the Adirondacks, this is a committing adventure on a stellar 470' line.

The route begins at the left-hand side of a face below a large flake and detached buttress. A huge square scoop in the face lies to its immediate left. Face climbing leads to a set of three open books, the last containing a crack where placement is critical (yellow Alien). A traverse (crux) to a seam and vertical cracks breaks a small roof before a right leaning crack with two alders and loose blocks.

An off-width crack mixes it up a bit; shimmy up the razor edge of the flake with one leg in the crack. The flake creating the crack is part of the aforementioned detached buttress. Belay slightly right from horizontal cracks above a 6 inch ledge.

Pitch two follows the left leaning OW to the lower angle face above. A network of deep fist cracks lead up to a left arching bulge above a tree-island. The third and final pitch follows up and left to an obvious chimney (10' wide) that breaks the ledges at the top. Use the face directly right of the chimney if it's too wet.

Rappel down the route.

Other Resources:

Adirondack Rock-New Routes.

Account of the FA with photos & video.

On Adirondack Almanack

175' south of the Cloudsplitter/Agharta ice route on the Agharta Wall in Panther Gorge.

Standard rack with cams to about 3". There are no bolts or fixed gear.