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Peak Mountain 3

Tango

FA Wayne Crill, Hank Caylor, Kevin Gallagher, 2007
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Tango climbs the beautiful, green and red, left-facing dihedral system directly above

Foxtrot

in the Cirque of the Cracks area on the upper West Ridge. It's hard to do the Tango all alone, like they say, "it take two . . . ." Hence, this route is best climbed as an extension to

Foxtrot

making for a nice 100' pitch of continuous, high quality, 5.10 and 5.11 climbing.

Climb

Foxtrot

and continue up and slightly right with stemming into the 3", white, undercling flake. Escape out the roof crack left with exciting moves (crux) to get established on the headwall at the start of the dihedral proper. Climb the L-facing dihedral crack with thin fingers for ~50' before awkwardly transitioning to a second, shorter, left-facing dihedral and escaping to the top of the face. There [for years was] a tree belay 15' above here and 120' above the start of

Foxtrot

. Per

Joseph Crotty

: this has been replaced with a 2 bolts anchor.

This route was lead ground up and although established as a continuation of

Foxtrot

(.11d), it can be easily accessed by climbing either

Parallels

(.11b) or

Crazy Fingers

(.12b). The grade given is for the climbing above foxtrot only, whether including

Foxtrot

or not in the grade, the climbing is well protected.

Location

Tango and Foxtrot are readily located in the cirque of the cracks area at the top of the West face.

The descent used to be from the tree anchor above with either a single 60m to Parallels' anchor or a single 70m to the ledge starting Foxtrot (knot the end!).

Per

Joseph Crotty

: now there is a 2 bolt anchor.

Protection

Gear: (Including any of the beginning routes) 2x cams to ~ 1" including triples in finger sizes, many nuts, RPs, a few 3' slings. [The descent use to be] with 70m to the ground or with 60m to

Crazy Fingers

anchor and then to the ground. Per

Joseph Crotty

: now there is a 2 bolt anchor.


Routes in West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express


  1. 32
    Tango
    5.11
    Trad