- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is an overlooked route. I really enjoyed it and it was different and out of character for Eldo. The black corner here is not "dirty" it's in fact a hard patina!
This route lies in the obscure
Kashmir
area. It is best found by passing the Cirque of the Cracks, landmarking via the last obvious corner, "
The Formula
" (fixed pins and a fixed wire) continue up the hill and right to an obvious black corner with a steep "tips" crack section 7 meters up.
Climb the corner on good holds and good moves with good gear (small Aliens or similar), passing the 5.10a crux to a good rest before finishing on decent jams and larger gear.
Finish up and right to a huge tree with a sling and ring (just replaced). Rap to descend.
Protection
A standard light rack with some 0.3-0.75" cams. You get overhead pro for the crux sequence, finished with the pro at knee level. It can be sewn up if desired. (Edit to add): some people say that the gear might pull. I was not too worried about this, but it apparently happened to someone. Read the comments below.
Routes in West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express
- 11Rhadamanthus5.10aTrad