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Peak Mountain 3

Rhadamanthus

FA M. Brooks, J. Martin, 1982
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is an overlooked route. I really enjoyed it and it was different and out of character for Eldo. The black corner here is not "dirty" it's in fact a hard patina!

This route lies in the obscure

Kashmir

area. It is best found by passing the Cirque of the Cracks, landmarking via the last obvious corner, "

The Formula

" (fixed pins and a fixed wire) continue up the hill and right to an obvious black corner with a steep "tips" crack section 7 meters up.

Climb the corner on good holds and good moves with good gear (small Aliens or similar), passing the 5.10a crux to a good rest before finishing on decent jams and larger gear.

Finish up and right to a huge tree with a sling and ring (just replaced). Rap to descend.

Protection

A standard light rack with some 0.3-0.75" cams. You get overhead pro for the crux sequence, finished with the pro at knee level. It can be sewn up if desired. (Edit to add): some people say that the gear might pull. I was not too worried about this, but it apparently happened to someone. Read the comments below.


Routes in West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express


  1. 11
    Rhadamanthus
    5.10a
    Trad