Crazy Fingers

Seldom done and very misunderstood (there is actually plenty of good gear, I swear!), this is an unheralded Eldo classic. The body movement through the thin sidepulls and finger locks is everything a trad climber dreams of; subtle, precise, technical and just a little bit powerful. And to top it off, the climbing is framed by stunning yellow streaks of lichen.

This thin crack beauty lies to the right of

Parallels

and

Foxtrot

. After finishing the last crux and locking the perfect finger jam, [you used to have to] traverse left and up past the top of

Foxtrot

to the

Parallels

anchors.

Per

Joseph Crotty

: now there is a 2 bolt anchor.

It blows my mind that Guerin and Horan lead this without small Aliens and offsets. Those boys were, well, tough! Now days, the lead is not so severe. Only a small runout from a piece at the first ledge to the next jug and good piece gives this any spice (and the climbing is easy there). After that, it is small cams and RPs.

This now has a 2 bolt anchor.