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Peak Mountain 3

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FA Dougald MacDonald, Mark Hammond, Dave Goldstein
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Description

This is a fun route with some great climbing, marred by a somewhat crummy start and contrived avoidance of easier ground. The upper half is great.

Scramble to the starting ledge for

Inverted Vee

or

Bit by Bit

, just right of the

Foxtrot

/

Parallels

area. This ledge is about 20 feet up, but you can belay from the ground. Climb the first few feet of Inverted Vee and then break left up a vague corner crack, pulling on somewhat suspect flakes. This gets very steep at the top. Reach high to place a big cam with a long sling, and instead of climbing straight up (which quickly becomes easy), bust straight left on classic Eldo stone. After some hard-ish moves, you'll be at the base of a left-facing corner. Place a very key green Alien (bring a yellow Alien too, in case my memory is faulty), and then climb straight up the corner with tricky moves to a small tree. Rappel from here (back up the tree for the second).

We did this route sometime in 2003 but forgot to post it.

Protection

Standard rack: Bring one #4 cam and a green and yellow Aliens.


Routes in West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express


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