- Edit (TBD)
Description
Left of
Milk Dreams
, there is a left-facing corner 30 feet off the ground. Just left of this is a seam which becomes a double seam through a small overhang, this is the route. About 25 feet of poorly protected but easy scrambling/climbing leads to the base of the corner and seam. Climb the seam and face holds around it (throwing a foot in the corner as needed) to just above the overhang. Gear placements and face holds just keep appearing, have faith. Step right here into a wide hands crack, then straight up to join the final thin hands corner of
Milk Dreams
. Double rope rappel gets you down. Or do another short pitch, Cookies. From the ground, the route looks hard, unprotected and dirty/no fun. It is none of the above, and is actually quite good.
Protection
A set of nuts, a set of TCUs, a set of cams to #3.5 Friend (that's a #3 Camalot).
Routes in West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express
- 27Milk and Honey5.8Trad