The Masterbator's Edge

The Masterbator's Edge (credit for the name goes to Mr. Samet) climbs the overhanging arete immediately right of

Funeral March

. Scramble to the base of

Funeral March

and launch up the arete. A balancy start with very poor protection yields to a less difficult but still exciting finish. The rock at the crux is less than perfect, but the classic line and thrilling moves deserve 3 stars. I toproped the route several times before leading it, because a fall at the crux would reap severe consequences.

A handful of tiny RPs and steel nuts can be wiggled in at the start. A #000 Black Diamond C3 can be placed below the crux but it will almost certainly rip (or break the rock) if you fall. For the upper arete it's nice to have a #2 TCU, a #0.75 Camalot, and 2 #2 Camalots. Also, a cordelette around a flake and #3 Camalot are useful as directionals for toproping, with the main anchor being the 2 bolts above

Hand Crack

.