Cader Crack

An interesting short pitch involving a steep, but easy, crack leading to a fine slab. In Welsh Arthurian legend the real-life mountain of Cader Idris was believed to be the seat of power for King Arthur. The crack was “found” while thrashing around in the wide, tree-filled gully after exploring Arthur's Arete.

START – About 1/3 the way up the wide gully on climber’s left, at the base of a 20-25 ft high crack. (see photo(s) and "Location")

P1 – Climb the crack for about 15-18 ft. Below the top of the now-wider crack, and below the level of a tiny bush/tree, step out left (bolt) moving left and up across the face a few feet to a stance. Now step back right and then straight up the face (2 bolts to dbl bolt anchor). 60-70 ft 5.6

See photo. Access is in one of three ways:

1)Hike Up the Gully from Bottom - From the bottom of the cliff (e.g. bottom of “Bugs Eat Frogs”) walk climber’s-right along the base of the cliff for about 100 ft (some up-and-down hiking for the easiest path) and hike up the tree-bush-and-rock filled gully until a large diameter log is encountered. The crack should be up and to your left.

2)Hike Down the Gully from the Top - From where the official hiking trail leaves the woods and starts to cross the open slab (This is 25 ft beyond where the climber’s path to the “Bugs” and “Merlin” raps leave the hiking trail.) continue on the hiking trail for 35 paces (about 120-150 ft) to where it almost flattens out above the gravelly section. Turn right and go through the woods a few feet to a slab. Follow the top of this slab to skier’s/viewer’s left until it enters the woods (cairn). Here a crude path hits the base of a short cliff, then drops down right and then over left, then down to the right into the gully. The path is reasonably distinct (and worth re-finding if you lose it) until it reaches the “turn-off” on hiker’s-left towards the top of King Arthur’s Arete. Here you should step over the “twin fallen logs” and move to hiker’s right down the gully (now more overgrown) for 100 +/- ft. You might see a shorter crack on a slab to the right before you reach the larger crack of “Cader’s”. Look for Cader Crack about the time you see the large diameter log.

3)Rap in from Hector’s Highway’s top Tree Anchor - Follow directions to the Hector’s Highway Rap station. Here, instead of rappelling/tension traversing to climber’s/rappeller’s left to get to Hector’s, drop down straight 70 ft to a wooded ledge. Walk 40-50 +/- ft to climber’s right (skier’s left) through the trees on this ledge. Near its end there will be a pine tree and a 2nd pine tree closer to the edge. The top anchor is just below this pine tree. Rap 60-70 ft to the base, throwing ropes to skier’s right to avoid entanglement with a small tree.

Med Cam or nut(s) for first few feet of the crack, then 3 draws.