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Peak Mountain 3

City of Lost Children

FA Brad White and Jim Frangos Summer 1983
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

City of Lost Children 5.8 / 5.8+ Some 5.3-5.4 R FA Brad White and Jim Frangos Summer 1983 Originally put in moving right to Bugs Eat Frogs' belay, continuing straight up (option "A") makes for a nice climb. A new 3/8" bolt at the crux replaced the 30+ yr-old 1/4".

P1 – Climb past the bolt (5.8 / 5.8+). Once above the crux the climbing eases considerably. 20 feet above the bolt a fractured flake on the right gives false promise of protection (the flake is 'hollow'), but about 50-60 feet up a small ( 1 ft) curving flake on the left grabs a green (# 1) Camalot like a beggar does a $20 bill. Now either: A) continue straight up,(easy), clipping one more 3/8" bolt [about 110 ft up] and then up and right to the gear belay at intersection of the the overlap and the Picnic Table dike, (and then up the dike to the top); or....

 B) [as per the F.A.] move about 90-degrees right to the "Bugs" belay. Finish on "Bugs"; or.... 

 C) Up and left to the Table Scraps belay Finish on P2 & P3 of Table Scraps (which certainly maintains the grade !) or finish via P2 and P3 of "Holy Smoke" (See Var. for Table Scraps)

Location

START- About 25 feet LEFT of Bugs Eat Frogs, below what was described by Webster as a “lonely, bolt on a slab” about 20-25 feet up. Seems to be an alternate start to “Bugs” but it is more run-out and thinner, especially just below and above the bolt. A new 3/8 SS replaced the old 1/4" from the 1980's.

Protection

Draws for the bolts; consider a quick draw with two locking biners for the bolt 25 ft up;  Green Camalot or similar