Merlin

Merlin 5.7+ to 5.8- G/PG ( 5.5R and 5.3-5.4X) FA Matt Peer and Mark Hanson 1982

Webster states “this is the most popular climb on the cliff”, and now with the replacement of the 30+ year old bolts with 3/8" I'd have to agree. Look for a BLACK 3/8" bolt about 25 ft up, and about a foot left of the black-lichen-water streak.

P1 – Climb directly up (5.5 R) and clip the first bolt. A sequence of moves above the bolt probably “totals” to 5.7+. Continuing up, the climb eases ( a bit run-out to the 2nd bolt). Continue, run-out, to the belay, although if one looks left and clips the 3rd bolt on "Merlin's Wand" with a long sling, I'd doubt your belayer would complain. 115 feet, 5.7+ / 5.8- ( 5.5R )  Anchor has two new 3/8” bolts.) BEWARE THE HOLLOW FLAKE ABOVE and LEFT of the ANCHOR: NO CAMS !

Rap from the chains with a single, full length 60m, or double 50m ropes. or.....

P2 – ....Continue up in any number of ways, best is probably the pitch2 described for "False" Holy Smoke.

START – (See photo in Merlin's Wand description) Belay on the “Path” and traverse in 15-20ft on the 2” ledge until directly below the first black bolt. [Alternate start, probably the FA start: at the low-point of the ground about 30 feet below the first bolt.]

Couple of draws; long sling if clipping the 3rd bolt on Merlin's Wand is in the program.