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Peak Mountain 3

[Redacted]

FA Matt Peer and Mark Hanson 1982
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

"History" - Perhaps named, either as a play on words, after the Moody Blues mega hit love song "Nights in White Satin" (1967) or Giorgio Mooder's take-off album "Knights in White Satin" (1967). Googling either produces a number of references to people who honestly thought the song was about "Knights" (as in the Round Table), as opposed to "nights" spent in the white satin sheets given to the band leader! Perhaps so did Peer-Hanson!?After spending several hours in the neighborhood of where this climb should be I have concluded: A) The climb has virtually NO PROTECTION and is a total run-out once above a placement about 15-20 ft off the ground, and B) The “nut belay at a flake” [Webster] is probably the flake 165 (+/- ?)ft up, and 35 feet left of the maple-tree-cluster at the top of pitch1 of Holy Grail. C) I once considered the possibility that “Knights” and “Holy Grail” were one-and-the same climb, but this is refuted by the fact that Webster lists both climbs as having FA’s by the same people, so they should know.Here is a line which is probably as good as any, add a star or two if you are really "into" 5.7 "X" routes:P1 – See LOCATION/START - Climb over the curving "flake / overlap" and continue up the orange rock above. No protection. The climb passes closely to a significant ledge about 100 feet up, (where there is now a belay/rap anchor on "Red Knight") but there was nothing there on the FA. Continue up 50-60 feet to a low-angled flake-corner and belay [gear, TCU's and/or wire nuts]. 165ft( +/-) 5.5 X This flake-corner is about 30-35ft left of the clump of small maple trees that is the belay & rap anchor for Holy Grail."ALTERNATE" (Possibly the line of FA, but 5.6-5.7R/X) Start as for Holy Grail, but then move further left into distinctly orange-colored rock and then up, reaching the same ledge at 100-120ft as described above. 5.6 R/X – 5.7 R/X  Continue up to the belay corner.P2 – Climb the flake-corner, then the slab, heading diagonally right to the trees. You might encounter the top (of 2) new 3/8" bolts on this 'upper slab'. (see "False Holy Smoke", P2 )

Location

At far left of slab, as good a place as any is to start about 30-35 ft left of "False" Holy Smoke (see Photo) below at a small curving "flake/overlap" 10-15ft off the ground. This is about 10-15 ft left of the start of Holy Grail.

Protection

Essentially ZERO after the opening moves.