The Old Smokey's Return

The Old Smokey’s Return 5.4 G / PG-13 ?F?A? / As Climbed By / R. Hall, Doug Burnell and Doug Teschner, Oct 25, 2013START - About 10 ft left of the False Holy Smoke belay tree, directly below the right side of a bulge-corner which is about 20-25 ft above the ground. SEE PHOTO. GEAR: A Medium-large (black strap) Tricam eliminates the "X-Factor", as does a #3 (blue) Camalot. Also needed is a Gold (#2) Camalot, Green (#1) and an optional Red (# 1.5) Camalot.P1 – Climb to the right side of the bulge (hole for a “black Tricam”) then climb up 15-20 ft to a hole (Gold #2 Camalot), continue straight up, passing a 3/8 bolt after 20ft, then another 25ft ft to a larger hole (#3 Camalot). This hole is 6 feet below a right-facing "half-moon" flake (which is useless for pro.) Then up on brushed, white-ish rock passing a 2nd bolt and continue to an obvious left-facing flake. (#1, # 1.5 Cams) Up this and then move 25 ft left to the Holy Grail belay [Alt] at the maple tree clump. 165+ft, 5.4-5.5[Alt- Move right to the False Holy Smoke belay. ]Descent: 1) Rap with two ropes, or 2) Make a diagonal rap to the P1 anchor of "The Red Knight's Romp" and then a 2nd rap to the ground , or 3) traverse (5.2+/-)  to the Merlin anchor to rap with one full-length 60 meter rope.P2 - The easiest, most well protected exit from the slab. From the "maple tree clump belay" move easily right and up to the overlap. Over this a foot or two left of a bush (at a bolt, same place as False Holy Smoke and also easily reached from both the anchors of  False Holy Smoke and Merlin). Instead of straight up as for False Holy Smoke, move diagonally up and right to a curving flake (small gear possible). Step over at brushed footholds (relatively low) and climb the slab to a fixed 2-inch aluminum "bong" piton. Walk 15(+/-) ft right along the horizontal ledge, then easily straight up to the overlap. Surmount this about 5 ft left of its right end at a sort of "step" with a bolt above. ("crux" 5.4-5.5) Continue 10 ft to the Upper Merlin Rap station. 90-100 ft 5.4-5.5 To get back to the "Bugs" rap station and the hiking trail, take the climber's path that starts a few feet above the rap station.

See Photo. The "bulge-corner" is about 15 ft below the climber. START - About 10 ft left of the False Holy Smoke belay tree, directly below the right side of an indistinct bulge-corner about 20-25 ft above the ground.

GEAR: Medium-large (black strap) Tricam, Gold Camalot (#2), Blue (#3) Camalot, Green (#1) and an optional Red (# 1.5) Camalot.