St. Alphonso's Pancake Breakfast

Are you climbing in the

Green A

and someone's gang banging your super proj? Have a go on

St. Alphonso's Pancake Breakfast

. Nice, well-rounded climbing over interesting terrain; this is an exciting lead with some old-school flare. Undescribed in the

Wasatch Guide

, most should find this route to be quite memorable.

Begin on the right side of the face and climb up a dihedral/crack until you can gain an undercling/roof feature. Follow the roof left about 15 feet until you reach the base of a large, prominent crack. Pull the small roof feature using a savior chickenhead and land on a stance just above the roof. Take care to protect yourself here, then prepare for the business. Continue up the obvious, troublesome crack until you gain a stance. Top out the route on a nice ledge, build an anchor in a set of horizontal cracks, or redirect your second and belay from a lower set of chains.

Good, old school climbing at its grimiest. Pucker up and send!

St. Alphonso's Pancake Breakfast

is high in the

Green Adjective Gully

. It lies on the east side of the canyon and is two lines right of

Wheels on Fire

.

A single set of cams up to a #3 bd camalot sufficed for me, while some people may prefer a #4 or #5 camalot or cam that fits 6 to 7 inches for the dihedral at the start.