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Peak Mountain 3

The Eve Traverse (Free)

FA: Brian & Jonathan Smooth '78,FFA pitch 2: Lance Bateman & Ben Folsom '93, FFA full route: Brent Barghahn 2020
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

One huge pitch of nearly all finger locks! Right up there with Alpenbock Crack in difficulty, albeit a very different style. An awesome, singular line as a free route.

A cruxy tips section past the bolt gains hero mono locks with bad feet. The seam then turns into classic LCC ramping to a midway rest in the chimney pod. The old pin belay at the hanging stance here is long gone - a proper free ascent continues onward up the 5.12 second half (which feels much more strenuous on link).

Location

The diagonaling crack just above and left of Stormy Resurection. Go way up Green A gully, just passed the chockstone scramble.

Protection

A heavy finger sized rack including: Micro Stoppers, Micro Cams, Offset Cams, 4-6x 0.3s and 0.4s, 1x #2

70m rope required to lower

Pins are not needed for free protection