Wheels on Fire Direct

Wheels on Fire Direct

is a very good variation high up on the

Wheels of Fire

route. The start is the same as for

Wheels on Fire

. Scramble up a really slick section to gain a higher ledge. Either approach the crack directly for a little more challenge, or traverse in from the left up higher. Jam and lieback up to the big flake (crux right below the flake).

Instead of the leftward hand traverse at the flake, continue straight up the steep dihedral with a few small bulges. This climbing is quite juggy and has great jams, but is a lieback so a lead is much harder than a TR. The face smears are also quite ricey in spots.

Standard Rack. Small cams up to a #3 Camalot. The upper section is mostly small-hand-sized.