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Peak Mountain 3

MA 1

FA 1978, Rick Bradshaw/Dave Jenkins
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

From the top of

The Green Adjective

, head up grooves and flakes to the large roof. An easy undercling traverse left (always wet early in the year) places you at a steep dihedral with a tips to fingers crack.

This is a good place to set a couple bomber pieces if you chose not to protect the traverse due to impending rope drag. Exciting lieback moves place you at a stance with small edges, and then continue up and right to a platform.

From here, angle up and right, through an off-balance move to a ramp, which ultimately achieves the first belay.

The second pitch moves left along the base of the huge shield until it reaches a wide crack on the left of the shield. Ascend this crack, with the occasional off-width move to the top and belay on the large shelf.

Protection

Cams to 3" and a set of stoppers. Rope drag can be a big problem if you choose to protect the 5.5 undercling traverse from the top of the Green "A".