Gordon's Hangover

Super classic. There are two ways to approach the upper section. I am describing the original start, which takes the most direct line. This way also makes the route best done as one long pitch.

Start in the huge dihedral downhill from

The Green Adjective

. This is also the same start as

Touch Up

and

Perhaps

.

Climb the dihedral, which is very moderate for the first fifty feet or so. Continue up through slightly increased difficulty to a big undercling flake.

Traverse left with powerful liebacks (first 5.9+ crux, not as hard as it looks), which quickly gets to the second crux, a hand crack through a bulge. The hand crack has bomber hands, but is awkward for the feet.

Finally, traverse right ten feet on good holds to the anchor. Make sure to protect the second through all the traverses.

A second option exists for this route which is also really good. Climb the 1st pitch of Perhaps and stop at the belay anchor. Begin here up Gordon's Hangover by climbing the left-most dihedral which leads into the over-hanging flake. Another great option and a different variation which is a more interesting start IMO.

Standard rack. This is a long pitch, so bring quite a bit of gear. A #3 camalot is good for the undercling traverse, and save a #2 camalot size for the crux bulging hand crack.