Sweet Life

Sweet Life tackles the right edge of the giant northwest face of the larger buttress that is formed by the Traffic Jam gully on the right and a large upper face on the left. From bottom to top this route is simply amazing. Sweet Life is destined to become "the 5.9" to do at Black Mountain the way Wild Black may be "the 5.10".P1. 70' 5.8 Climb straight up following amazing cracks along the left edge of a giant gully. At mid height there is a large block sitting on a ledge on the right. This block doesn't move but isn't attached. It's possible and reasonable to stay left, only using the block to stand on. Pass one bolt on the left face, avoiding the crumbly blocks in the chimney to the right. Belay at 2 bolts on a ledge in a small alcove.P2. 100' 5.9+ Simply amazing climbing along a unique feature. After 10 feet of cracks follow the arete up and left as it snakes along the edge of the large face (steep). Climb past 4 bolts (optional gold camalot in a horizontal on right after the first bolt) and gain the giant, wedged block (hero climbing). A blue BD X4 or green alien off left helps protect this exposed section along the arete. The angle eases here and the remainder of the pitch has thoughtful off vertical face climbing in a wonderful and exposed setting along the arete. Gear to 3" is useful along the upper arete. Gain the ledge on top and belay using the Soul Journey anchor to the left.Rappel down Soul Journey. Getting back to the belay on Sweet Life will be challenging due to the traversing nature of the pitch.

Gain the same wooded terrace as for Expanding Horizons. Go past Expanding Horizons and gain a flat granite pedestal  15' up, just below the vertical crack system.

Gear to from .3- 3", an extra .75 may be useful on pitch 2.