We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

Out of the Blue (and into the Black)

FA Ira O'Meara, Caleb Fischer
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Climbs the right side of the Black Clouds slab, then continues up the cool, thin corner to a overhanging wall above. Techy crack and corner climbing leads to steep sporty climbing. Pitch 1: Locate a black bolt to the right of the obvious bolted line of Black Clouds. Climb the slab and thin corner crack (small cams) then make thin moves up to a ledge, 10d. PG.  This pitch can be skipped by walking up the gully to the right. It is also one of the few pitches at Black that is easy to set up a toprope. Pitch 2: From the 2 bolt anchor on the ledge, move left and get established in the cracks on the left side of the corner. A #2 protects the moves off the ledge. Clip a bolt, back-clean the #2,  and climb the thin cracks and corner for 35 feet. (The first crux is pretty low, so protect early and often.) At its top, move right an reach to clip a bolt. Step back down and engage in steep, gymnastic climbing (second crux) to reach a jug right. Clip another bolt then perform another big move to another great edge. Continue up more easily to a ledge with a 2 bolt anchor. 

Location

Starts at the tounge of rock that comes down to the trail between Sweet Life area and Jengarete. The slab is steeper and harder than it looks! This is the route on the right. Pitch 2 starts at a ledge about 70 feet up- one could bypass the first pitch and hike up the steep gully on the right to gain that ledge. 

Protection

P1: bolts and a couple small cams P2 : 6 or 7 Bolts , finger sized trad gear (0 cam to .75) optional #2 for below the first bolt on p2.