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Peak Mountain 3

Expanding Horizons

FA Kristin Dolcimascolo, Ryan Stefiuk, 2020
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A bit of an odyssey, with several different sections, a bit of an alpine feel and some loose rock that must be managed. The final pitch has excellent exposure and incredibly moderate climbing on fantastic jugs and flakes.P.1 5.9- Gain a short steep angling crack, follow it to it's end and mantle onto the ledge above (stepping right on the ledge, 2" piece in horizontal at face height useful to manage rope drag later on). Go to the back of the deep ledge. From the back of the ledge climb flakes and jugs up and right (.5"-1" cams helpful here) and pass a short vertical lieback (5.8, 1 bolt and 0.5" gear useful). Gain the ledge/alcove above. If you are climbing Soul Journey, belay here at the 2-bolt anchor. To continue up Expanding Horizons traverse up and left past 5 bolts and gain the vegetated ledge above (excellent climbing here). Care must be used gaining the ledge, as some of the blocks in the corner on the right are precariously wedged on the ledge. 2-bolt anchor on the ledge.P2. 5.5 An amazing moderate pitch, with generous holds, great exposure, good protection. Follow the face just up and left of the belay anchor, straight up, past 2 bolts and many deep horizontals. Either belay your partner up or lower back to the ledge.Rappel the route, being mindful of loose rock and rope snags.

Location

Gain a wooded terrace on the right after descending from the Traffic Jam area. If you reach the Black Clouds slab you've gone a little too far.

Protection

Single rack from tips to 3", a few long slings to manage drag on the first pitch