Meadowlark

Meadowlark is in competition with Fear is the Mind Killer for the title of Black Mountain's longest crack. Spot the corner on the right of the Threat Level Midnight buttress. This crack goes all the way to a nice ledge on the top of the cliff; as you go higher, it gets smaller, harder, cleaner, and better.P1: The corner begins in earnest from the left end of a ledge 20ft up, which you can gain two ways. Either climb a shallow corner capped by a right-facing block in the middle of the ledge, or for directissima points, go up the squeeze chimney that leads straight into the corner. Once in the corner, climb a 5.10 crux in a flaring bulge with perfect gear. Move up to a ledge below a huge block and go right to belay on the tree-covered ledge. It's best to belay off a tree.P2: Climb through reachy jugs to reenter the corner. Compose yourself and place high gear, then launch into sustained sharp fingerlocks to a final mantle below the chains. This pitch is amazing.Rappel with a 70m rope. 60 may work but it's untested. The 'jukebox' block dividing pitches one and two is really big and moves, and we tried very hard to push it off. Time will do its thing, but for now there doesn't seem to be any risk of it falling. It's caught behind the edge of the left wall. Pulling ropes don't go near it and you don't touch it at all when climbing. I think this route sat undone because it was hard to see through the trees. To warm up and get inspired, climb Jengarete; the top crux of Meadowlark is visible for much of that climb.

Past Jengarete, the right corner of the buttress where the very recognizable routes Threat Level Midnight and Black Moon Rising can be found.

Doubles from BD 0.1 through .75, single 1-3.