Beer-Bellied Black Mountain Bushwhackers

Scrambled up this dirty offwidth the other day to see if it was worth climbing. It is definitely NOT worth climbing.. Mostly posting this route so others won't make the same mistake I did.

5.5 stemming on bad rock with one short offwidth crux sequence right at the top. Since protecting the climb requires a few pieces of large gear, I can't really say this line is worth lugging metal out to the cliff. Having said that, if you're looking to practice your stemming, big gear placement, adventure climbing, and offwidth technique, this may be the route for you.. Just be careful not to knock choss onto your belayer.

Start by scrambling up the chossy corner (potential death blocks en route) to the large tree. Sling the tree for pro, then move into the offwidth. At the top of the wide crack, move right and finish up the last bolt(s) of Dirty Dreams, then lower off the Dirty Dreams anchor.

Look for the dirty offwidth crack in the dihedral formed uphill from the base of Dirty Dreams/Black Dreams. The route should be obvious.

I led the FA by leaving a number 5 shortly after the tree and bumping a singular number 6 Camalot upwards as I climbed. Since the crack is not uniform and is barely small enough for a #6, my cam walked out several times during the ascent, leaving me 40 feet off the deck with only my body for protection. I remember wanting a second #6 or a Big Bro but we didn't have any with us. Regardless, a singular #6 felt marginal at best. If you're going to climb this I recommend two #6's or a Big Bro. Lower off the Dirty Dreams anchor.