- Edit (TBD)
Crescent Arch
Description
This route follows the obvious right-curving corner which lies in the center of the West Face.
P1
: easy 5th to a big ledge below a bulge that pulls into a short squeeze chimney. Belay at the ledge, not at the fixed pins 12 feet up recommended by supertopo.
P2
: go up the squeeze at .7, clip the pins with a long runner, traverse out the roof into the slick corner. Awkward fingers and hip scumming up, then out another roof. 100', lots of sustained .9.
P3
: off the ledge with the hangarless bolt, up and out the roof, then up another slick corner with very awkward hands. Up to a huge ledge. sustained awkward .9, 60 feet.
I combined 2 and 3 no problem with a 60m rope and a double cam rack with a single #3. ledge is huge and comfy.
P4
: guidebook crux. mostly .7 and .8 slab. Hard part is getting gear in the seam on the corner/roof. It's there, but it's thin and placing it can be strenuous. The crux move felt like .10a slab, and is well protected on both sides. Then fun knob climbing past a pin to the belay.
P5
: easy 5th to the top.
Descent
: follow cairns to the east side of the dome. Big ledge with a tree. Chains on top of a huge block. 2 raps with a 60m to the ground. maybe 1 rap with a 70?
Agreed that the sustained .9 is harder than the single crux move.
Protection
A selection of cams and stoppers.
Routes in West Face
- 9Crescent Arch5.10aTrad