Bombs Over Tokyo (Full)

I had always been curious about the pitches above the popular Bombs Over Tokyo first pitch, but the scary second pitch always kept me from going ground up.  I finally got around to dropping in from above this summer.

I found the recently rebolted variation which Katy Lambert freed a few years back to be to scrunchy for me.  I switched my focus to the original line.  The crux pitch was very dirty, flaky, lichenous, but after scrubbing some of the key sections I was able to start piecing it together.  The 4 quarter inch bolts looked to be in surprisingly good condition, but I pulled them out and reused the holes to put in 3/8th inch stainless bolts.

The climb breaks down as follows.

1st Pitch: 5.10C

Climb the classic splitter first pitch to a 2 bolt anchor on a stance.

2nd Pitch: 5.11D PG 13

Climb the sparsely protected seam/slab up and left from the belay.  Slot a small offset nut into a constriction you can reach from the ledge, then tech your way up a few more feet.  Place another small offset nut,  I also put a Metolius 0 TCU in the same pod, breathe deep and launch into technical edging and seem crimping for the next 15 feet.  This section is more scary than dangerous, with the roof right below you, I found it intimidating even knowing the moves.  I removed the old knifeblade at the top of this pitch and put in a bright and shiny 3/8" stainless bolt.  The bolt is about 2 feet lower than the knifeblade and makes the pitch feel substantially safer.  The last gear you place is just below your feet when you clip the bolt.  After clipping the bolt, make a few more tricky moves to cross the arete and gain easier ground to the belay.

3rd Pitch: 5.12+

This pitch has 2 distinct cruxes, and then sustained climbing to the anchor.  Climb straight up to the base of a shallow dihedral.  Place a .3 to protect getting to the first bolt (added in 2021) this new bolt protects the beginning of the crux sequence.  Tricky stemming up the corner and a big reach left leads to a good rest at the horizontal crack.  Traverse the horizontal crack, past 2 more bolts and 3 pitons.  The start of the traverse is another crux sequence followed by sustained 11+/12- climbing around the arete.  This pitch stays on you all the to the anchor.  I placed a .3 at the beginning and a .2 at the end of the pitch and all other pro is bolts or pins.

4th Pitch: 5.10+

Climb back to the arete and follow it for 150 feet of glorious and exposed knob climbing.  The top follows a crack, bring a single set to #1 for pro.

5th Pitch: 5.8

Climb the final pitch of Blown Away, bolts and gear.

Single rack to #2, 7 quickdraws, 5 or 6 alpine draws, 60m rope.