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Peak Mountain 3

R.C.A.

FA Tobin Sorenson, Mike Graham, Rick Accomazzo 1973
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Starts up the beautiful mini-corner Right of Crescent Arch with three pitches of successively more committing and wonderfully varied, quality 5.8 climbing.

Scramble 4th class up to the corner from the sandy ledge with two evergreen trees and setup a belay. 60 feet.

P1: Climb up the low angle hand crack until it steepens to fingers/hands and make a 5.8 move. Above this the crack disappears make a spicy 5.8 face traverse 20 feet right past good knobs to a two bolt belay.

P2: Climb more or less straight right about 20 feet from the belay on sustained 5.8+ knobs with no protection over to the black water streak, continue up to a prominent dike that crosses the face. Another 10 feet or so up the streak reaches a very welcome new ASCA bolt. Continue up the streak 5.7 past wonderful knobs, numerous pockets and horizontals with great gear. Belay to the right from the bolts on the ledge above. The tree can be avoided and left undamaged by traversing just below it on a horizontal.

P3: From bolted anchor, climb up and right to a shallow left facing corner to reach super fun horizontals. Climb up past a few horizontals, the last with good small TCU's. The difficulties end with a hard, committing and improbable mantle with dangerous fall potential (5.8++ R), maybe the most dangerous and difficult move of the route. Continue up on easy terrain to a ledge with evergreen trees.

Scramble 4th class to the summit.

Location

Ascends the arching corner Right of Crescent Arch on the west face of Daff Dome.

Protection

A single set of cams to 2", set of TCU's, a #0.25 Tricam is very useful, about 8 runners, stoppers.