40 knobs to freedom

40 Knobs to Freedom (5.10b/c) PG-13

Get psyched to pull on 40 golden knobs on the 3rd pitch! This route is the direct start and finish to a old school route the Ron Kauk established in the 70s or 80’s (Black Bard, 5.10b). With Kauk’s blessing we put up a direct 1st pitch and 3rd pitch.

Pitch 1-(5.10b) starts 10ft right of ledge used to gain access to West Crack. 2 close bolts above a little alcove marks the start. Go right at 2nd bolt to a diagonal rail (.75 placement) then follow to easier climbing to next bolt. Head up the slab to the triple cracks. Belay 15ft below roof on gear anchor. (40M) PG-13

Pitch 2-  (5.10b steep!) follow the crack and traverse right to gain a left traversing jug rail. (Grainy rock). Go through wild roofs (5.10) into a dihedral marked by a pin near the bottom follow dihedral till fixed nut.

GO

left after fixed nut to a knobby/crimpy face. Climb to an awesome ledge with a bolted anchor. Manage rope properly, rope drag can be heinous! (30M) PG-13

Pitch 3-(5.10a) 40 knobs to freedom pitch! Follow up line of bolts on awesome knobs! Midway through traverse go right to follow bolts to pins ends at bolted anchor. (50m, 9 bolts and 2 Pins)  Throw on some Sublime on this pitch.

Pitch  4-(5.7) escape left into west crack.. (50m)

Starts at a small alcove to the right of witch of the west. Has 2 close bolts that marks the start.

Singles of .2-.5 double of .75-#2, 6 quickdraws, 8 alpine, and Rp's.