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Peak Mountain 3

Left Center High Face

FA TR Ken Roberts
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Lots of thoughtful moves.

Start on left half of lowest continuous rock just above Mid-Level Ledge, about 7 ft left of two-bolt anchor with carabiners, or 15-20 ft left of the Shady Bush. Aim for left side of high bush up at top of cliff, roughly straight up toward two-bolt anchor (or a bit left). Harder finish if stay left of (and avoid using) thin crack going up to anchor.

warning

: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

FA first ascent? The listing of a Top-Rope first ascent does not imply that top-roping is the "appropriate" style for this route. If some party bolts this route and leads it and supplies a careful description of the size and metal-composition of the bolts and hangers - (by posting an Improve This Page or a Comment below) -- they wlll be given first-rank FA on this page. Also they can supply their own name for this climb (which is why currently this route has a "generic" name, awaiting installation of hardware).

Location

The lowest continuous rock just above Mid-Level Ledge 15-20 ft left from the Shady Bush.

See Mm on this Photo

Protection

Fixed protection only top anchor. No intermediate bolts for leading as of 2018.

Protection for Trad leading is unknown, and likely inadequate.

Top anchor is  two-bolts-connected-by-chain with rappel ring.

. . (bolts + upper hanger are 304 Stainless steel 3/8-inch x 2.75-inch. Lower hanger + rappel ring + chain + quick-links are Plated steel. Installed 2018).

Top-Roping: For ideas about how to get access to set up top anchor, see Description page for Moynier sector.

note: The two anchor bolts are vertically offset, so cannot just connect two quickdraws for lower-off or top-rope as many American sport climbers are accustomed. Consider bringing a sling or climbing accessory cord with one or two carabiners or quick-links.