- Edit (TBD)
Description
Thoughtful face climbing.
. . (perhaps could link to "Center High Face" route in upper part).
Up the face to finish near the "shade bush" around right center of Mid-Level Ledge.
warning
: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
FA first ascent? The listing of a Top-Rope first ascent does not imply that top-roping is the "appropriate" style for this route. If some party bolts this route and leads it and supplies a careful description of the size and metal-composition of the bolts and hangers - (by posting an Improve This Page or a Comment below) -- they wlll be given first-rank FA on this page. Also they can supply their own name for this climb (which is why currently this route has a "generic" name, awaiting installation of hardware).
Location
Right side of higher left side base of Moynier sector, 5-10 feet left of top of right-facing chimney/corner.
See D on this Photo
Could reach base of this route by scrambling up around left side of Lewis sector, or by first climbing a route on Lewis sector, or by lowering off mid-level anchor on right side of Moynier sector.
Protection
Two-bolts-connected-by-chain top anchor just above mid-level ledge about 10 feet left from the Shade Bush. With two carabiners attached.
. . (bolts + upper hanger are 304 Stainless steel 0.375 x 2.75-inch. Installed 2017).
. . (lower hanger + 7-link chain + 3 quick-links + 2 carabiners are Plated steel. Installed 2018).
Right anchor -- There is another bolt anchor in under the right side of the Shade Bush. This anchor is two-bolts-connected-by-chainwith two carabiners attached.
. . (bolts + upper hanger are 304 Stainless steel 0.375 x 2.75-inch. Installed 2018).
. . (lower hanger + 8-link chain + 2 quick-links + 2 carabiners are Plated steel. Installed 2018).
No intermediate bolts for leading as of 2018.
Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.
Top-Roping: Could use the 2-bolt top anchor at mid-level ledge as anchor. Or could use one of the anchors along the top of Moynier sector, with belayer on mid-level ledge (but this could result in a long fall due to rope stretch).
For ideas about how to get access to set up top anchor, see
Description page for Moynier sector
.
Routes in 8-Moynier
- 5Center Low Face5.7Tr