Voie Directe

Interesting moves in interesting spaces.

. . (formerly called "Far Left").

. . Nice to first start by climbing up "Left Low Chimney" or "Divine Martine".

. . Bolts in some parts of this route are closely spaced, like for a beginning leader. More experienced leaders will likely skip some bolts.

. . Bolts for this route are sometimes rather close to those for adjacent route to its left. Also the Variation gets its own bolts. So clip only the bolts you need for your chosen climbing. If choose the Variation, then when in doubt clip the bolt farther right - (On the main route sometimes not so simple to decide).

Scramble up easy on blocky rocks to right side of roof and trend right to top of left-trending ramp. Up right another step or two, then long diagonal Left, aiming for overhang which is a ways below the obvious high inside left-facing corner under right side of peak at left end of summit ridge. Next work around left side of overhang then step right over its top.

. . Variation (shorter less rope-drag, less interesting): Stop the diagonal left before reaching overhang, and zig-zag up the face to right of overhang.

Aim up to obvious inside left-facing corner, up left side of that to roof. Avoid that by crossing to right around corner to finish at two-bolt anchor.

descent

: Several options - (see sector Moynier area page for more details about some of these options).

(a) simple and pleasant but long is to top out, then over down the backside west and soon hit the main hiking trail

-- or could bushwhack down around the north side.

(b) top out and scamble north along summit ridge and rappel from the top anchor of one of the other routes (e.g. "Papageno"), down to the rappel anchor at the top of the route Mamba near the right end of the Mid-Level Ledge, then make a second rappel from there,

(c) rappel or lower back down to base of this route (rope might get caught in jagged tree in gully to left, then scramble north along the Mid-Level Ledge to the rappel anchor at the top of the route Mamba near the right end of the Mid-Level Ledge, then make a second rappel from there,

(d) Rappel or lower to the bottom of the route "Left Low Chimney" (below left from bottom of this route) - (rope more iikely to get caught in jagged tree in gully to left), then scramble down from there (careful 3rd class).

warning

: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

At left end of mid-level ledge, just above from Left Low Chimney.

See L on this Photo

Could reach bottom of "Left Low Chimney" by scrambling up around left side of sector 7 Lewis, then hike up diagonal right up to obvious chimney at left end of bottom of sector Moynier (under the Silverhorn mini-peak at left end of summit ridge).

Could reach bottom of "Divine Martine" by scrambling upound left side of sector 7 Lewis (or by leading "Salamander" on Lewis, then hike right on wide grassy ledge like 20-30 feet, and up right to left end of lower wall of sector Moynier (under the Silverhorn mini-peak at left end of summit ridge).

10 bolts up to two-bolts-connected-with-chain with opposing-gate carabiners just below cliff-top (as of 2017).

. . (intermediate bolts and hangers are 304 stainless, installed 2017).

. . (top anchor: Bolts + upper hanger are 304 stainless. But due to a mistake in purchasing, the lower hanger is Plated-Steel - until it gets replaced. Other anchor hardware is mostly Plated-Steel. Installed 2017).

Also for parties who want to "top out" on the left summit of the Dent d'Argentine, there is a two-bolt anchor on the

other

side (SW) of the left high point of the summit ridge. These two bolts are down in a small corner/gully.

. . (bolts + hangers are 304 stainless, installed 2017).

Protection for Trad leading is unknown, and likely inadequate.

Top-Roping: For ideas about how to get access to set up top anchor, see

Description page for Moynier sector

.

note: The two anchor bolts are vertically offset, so cannot just connect two quickdraws for lower-off or top-rope as many American sport climbers are accustomed. Consider bringing a sling or climbing accessory cord with one or two carabiners or quick-links.

In case anchor hardware is damaged or missing or otherwise inadequate, recommend to carry a few feet of 8mm climbing accessory cord and at least one quick-link.