NorthEast ridge Direct

Lots of thoughtful face moves on crest of ridge. Fairly sustained in diffficulty.

Idea is to make all moves as much exactly on the crest as possible. The crest weaves a bit.

Makes a nice second pitch continuation for the routes "Left Ridge" or "Connect" of sector 9 Secor.

directions

: Start on ledge by big bush which is horizontal right from the Mid-Level Ledge of sector Moynier.

Up the along crest of ridge to finish just right of two-bolt anchor.

. . . (about 2/3 of the way there is a choice of bolts left or bolts right -- step Right to stay on this route).

warning

: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

On ledge by big bush which is horizontal right from the Mid-Level Ledge of sector Moynier.

Obvious way to reach this is by first climbing the route "Left Ridge" of sector 9 Secor (or any other route that connects from sector Secor to sector Moynier).

Can also be reached by traversing right (clamblering over the trunk of a tree) from the Mid-Level Ledge. There is a bolt above the traverse right from the anchor for Mambo (which is also a rappel anchor), which is intended to protect the move right down from the trunk of the tree.

See S on this Photo

9 bolts for intermediate Lead protection up to top anchor: Two-bolts-connected-with-chain with ramshorn lower-off.

. . (bolts + upper hanger are 304 Stainless steel 3/8-inch x 2.75 inch. Lower hanger + ramshorn (pigs tail) lower-off are 316 Stainless. 3-link chain + quick-links are Plated steel. Anchor installed 2017).

. . (intermediate bolts for leading are all 304 Stainless steel 3/8-inch. Installed 2018).

For parties who want to "top out" onto the summit ridge of the Silverhorn, there is a two-bolt anchor with rappel ring on the summit ridge about 12-15 feet above left from that anchor.

. . (for details about this anchor,

See under Protection for the route "Right High Face"

).

Top-Roping: For ideas about how to get access to set up top anchor, see

Description page for Moynier sector

.

note: The two anchor bolts are vertically offset, so cannot just connect two quickdraws for lower-off or top-rope as many American sport climbers are accustomed. Consider bringing a sling or climbing accessory cord with one or two carabiners or quick-links.

In case anchor hardware is damaged or missing or otherwise inadequate, recommend to carry a few feet of 8mm climbing accessory cord and at least one quick-link.