Easy Off

This short and somewhat grungy pitch looks unattractive but has a few cool moves and a stumper crux. It is certainly no destination, but if you like doing committing thoughtful moves, it is worthy of the bother. The route generally is in the shade.

I cleaned the route well in July of 2001, and it may remain clean for a while if it gets a little traffic.

Easy Off ascends the northernmost section of Lower Peanuts Wall, going up the wall at some fixed slings (bolt and pin?). The original 5.9 grade is a sandbag and does not reflect the difficulty of the boulder problem required to get onto the first good holds of the route. This may range from 5.10a to 5.10d, depending on your height. At 5'11", it felt like 5.10c.

Climb up and left on a thin and insecure flake to reach a ledge, a short distance from the ground. These first few moves are hard and are not protected. The slab below might twist an ankle badly, so ask your belayer to spot you. Once on the small ledge, move left to its edge, clipping the fixed pro and placing a piece if it makes you feel better.

From there, move up and then up and right to reach the slabs above and belay.

To descend, walk off left (northeast) for 30 seconds to reach the cliff base.

Despite apparently having had a bolt retro-added, this climb could still produce a fall resulting in some nasty trists or scrapes. You might not clip anything but fixed gear, but placing your own would be a good option to have, including to make a belay, so I have listed this route as trad.