Evangelium Vitae (The Gospel of Life)

Climb out the stellar roof directly above

The Shield

. Steep climbing on mostly big clean holds leads to a few wild and innovative moves in a spectacular position. A great combination skills route for trad/sport teams - negotiate the excellent but heady .11b R ballet climbing on

The Shield

to gain the EV belay and then put on your sport face to secure the chains.

For those looking for an easier alternative approach pitch to EV, you can climb

Peanuts

or

Blows Against the Empire

and traverse left ~80' to reach the belay above

The Shield

.

From the belay atop

The Shield

, move left five feet and climb up two short angling cracks that converge. Place a good, blue #1 Metolius cam in the left crack high where it nearly converges with the right crack. Layback above the cam and rock onto the slab above finding a couple of good finger rails up high and right, and clip a bolt. You can not see the bolt from the belay. Move right five feet, and place a gold #2 Camalot, which will take the edge off clipping the second bolt next to the "tooth". You can stand up to the right of the tooth and get a great no hands shake - enjoy it as it's your last until the chains. Move left past the tooth, and latch a suit case block for clip three. Surf into the bottom left side of the "shark fin" for clip four. Get your psyche on for the crux. Hit clip five, and cope with final RP moves. See the Protection section below for helpful specifics on what draw lengths to use.

Many heart felt thanks to Steven Lucarelli, Rob Woolf, Steve Annecone, Rob Kepley, Matt McKey, Travis David, and Greg Miller for their support.

Two failed ground-up attempts in 2008 and subsequent top down inspections made it clear it required bolts. This was bolted in the Fall of 2009.

On Lower Peanuts Evangelium Vitae is the roof above

The Shield

. Do

The Shield

P1, and belay on a 8x2 foot ledge.

Belaying/Rope Length

70m rope is best. Belay atop P1

The Shield

. Several parties have reported that attempting EV from the ground using 80m rope results in tons of rope drag.

Descent

If you're at the belay atop P1

The Shield

, you have several options to reach the ground:

• Climb EV to the top, and walk off.

• With a 80m rope, climb EV to the anchor. Lower one climber to the ground. Rappel to the anchor atop

Young, Blond, and Easy

(i.e., climber's left) then rappel again.

• With a 70m rope, climb EV to the anchor. Lower one climber to the ledge 40' above the ground then 5.7 down climb to the climber's left.  Rappel to the anchor atop

Young, Blond, and Easy

(

i.e.

, climber's left) then rappel again.

• With a 60m rope, climb EV, and leave draws on bolts one and two and rappel with rope through draw two to the ledge 40' above the ground, then 5.7 downclimb to the climber's left.

• Then traverse 80' right to the anchor atop P1

Peanuts

, then rappel to the ground.

• Leave the gear you're belaying on atop P1

The Shield

, and rappel to the ground.

Pre-draw/TR

It's a circus to TR this as it's too steep to get back on if you fall anywhere in the first three bolts. It is possible to pre-draw the bolts by hiking up the back side of

Lower Peanuts

climbing up the slab 100' finding a long large detached block along the ridge. The anchor is just over the edge.

For

The Shield

a SR with a set of DMM Brass nuts (

i.e.

, two HB Brass Offset 3) and few technical finger-sized cams. Save two gold #2 Camalots for the belay.

Evangelium Vitae has five lead bolts and a two bolt anchor equipped with chains and carabiners. Bring a blue #1 Metolius Master Cam and a gold #2 Camalot. The rope will run optimally with the following placements:

1. Metolius Master Cam - blue #1 with quickdraw (gate left).

2. Bolt - shoulder runner and quickdraw (gate right) keeps rope running straight and clean when you're climbing higher.

3. BD Camalot - gold #2 with shoulder runner (gate right) takes the edge off the next clip.

4. Bolt - shoulder runner (gate right) makes your next burn a lot easier as you won't need the BD Camalot gold #2.

5. Bolt - shoulder runner (gate left) keeps the rope running straight.

6. Bolt - quickdraw (gate left).

7. Bolt - two quickdraws (gate right) keeps the rope running clean when you take the airy wobbler at the finish.