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Peak Mountain 3

Forbidden Planet

FA E. Johnson & A. Azoff, 1987
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This climb is an arete and face up on the upper tier of Lower Peanuts wall, just right of the routes

Wired

and

Dihedral

. It is some distance up and right of

Aspenleaf Dihedral

.

Aspenleaf Dihedral

is directly above the route

Your Basic Lieback

(5.6), or a scramble to the right of

Your Basic Lieback

(5.Easy).

Go up and past a slanting ledge and belay at a good stance with gear at the bottom of a good dihedral. Move out to the right and clip a bolt on the arete, then move around the corner to the right side and out right to a second bolt before moving up. This is the crux (5.11b). Continue up clipping a few bolts up along the way and heading back to the arete.

Belay & rap from the good bolted anchor up top.

This is a good route with great moves. If I weren't so stuck on multi-pitching, I might give it 3 stars, but like

Sunrider

, it's just not long enough to completely satisfy me.

Protection

Bolts.

Of course, you may want gear to do a good pitch to approach the climb.