- Edit (TBD)
Description
Your Basic Lieback is a great pitch, but it is short, and the belay sucks....as does getting down unless you continue up harder lines above to the summit (5.9s). This would be 3 stars for the actual climbing, but the approach onto the ledge 20 feet from the ground, the belay, and descent all suck, hence the 2 stars.... This route takes beautiful lieback/perfect hand crack, about 20 left of
Star Wars
, up steep face with a small bulge 30 feet up. The crack is only 40 feet long but is fun and sustained the whole way. It is a great beginner lead, but protect the bottom belay appropriately, and be careful on loose ledges. Continue to summit with several possibilities or traverse east on rotten strata 20 feet from belay to 2 bolt anchor, and rappel 80 feet to ground.
Location
This is 20 left of
Star Wars
.
Protection
Bring hand-sized hex(es) for belay...the start of route is on a loose and somewhat steep ramp...the upper anchor is in a rotten strata with some decent cracks for medium cams.
Routes in Lower Peanuts
- 28Your Basic Lieback5.6Trad