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Peak Mountain 3

Mag Seven

FA Rich Aschert, Ed Quesada, Ken Trout; FFA Sept 2016
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Mag Seven is the first crack route right of

The Obscure Dike

arête. Climb a hand crack through a small roof down low interspersed with some finger jams. The angle kicks back at 30m to a two-bolt anchor on the left side of the crack then widens to 5 cam size before angling sharply left to the top of P2 of

The Obscure Dike

arête, which is the rap route.

P1: 35m (5.9+**). Climb a hand crack through a small roof with sporadic finger jams and knobby face holds. Bring a rack to #2 can. Belay at the two-bolt anchor left of the crack.

P2: 40m (5.8**). The crack widens to #5 cam before angling steeply left on a horizontal crack/ledge to a two-bolt rap anchor at the arête.

P3: 50m (5.6 X****). Follow a variation of the last pitch of

Brain Cramp Buttress

as the pitch angles up and slightly right on very knobby terrain. Protect with small to medium cams (0.5 -1) about 10m above the start and medium cams (2-3) on the wide summit crack with a final crux move to gain the overlap and the rap anchors. Scramble 20m above to the summit tree if doing the walkoff.

Descent: the best option is to rap

The Obscure Dike

route with two 60m ropes; otherwise walk off to the north. Taking the first gully will require downclimbing 5.3, then do one short rappel near the top of the gully, scramble, and a find a good climber's trail thereafter. A walkoff to the south is less technical but requires downscrambling low angle slab then routefinding through boulders near the start of the gully which is very bushy (approximately 30 minutes either way).

Location

This ascends the first crack route right of

The Obscure Dike

arête.

Protection

Medium wires to 2 cam (2 each); 3, 4, 5 cams  (1 each or 2 each for P2), draws, and slings.