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Peak Mountain 3

The Obscure Dike

FA Rich Aschert, Wyatt Payne; FFA: July 2017
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

P1: 15m (5.9**). Start on the right side of a short block with hand jams to OW near the top. Once on top of the block, set a belay with 0.4 to 1 cams.

P2: 30m (5.10+****). Follow the horizontal hand crack left past a vertical crack that penetrates the roof below. Continue with four bolts on fairly large chickenheads up and left to the bolted belay station on the dike arête (a 30m rap to ground).

P3: 40m (5.10-****). Follow ten bolts up the arête to the bolted belay station on a good ledge, (0.5 cam optional) (a 70m rap to the ground).

P4: 50m (5.6 X****). Follow a variation of the last pitch of

Brain Cramps Buttress

as the pitch angles up and slightly right on very knobby terrain. Small to medium cams (0.5 -1 cams) about 10m above the start and medium cams (2-3 cams) on the wide, summit crack with a final move to gain the overlap and the rap anchors. Scramble 20m above to the summit tree if doing the walkoff.

Descent: the best option is to rap the Obscure Dike route with two 60m ropes; otherwise walk off to the north; taking the first gully will require downclimbing 5.3, then one short rappel near the top of the gully, then scrambling and a good climber's trail thereafter. A walkoff to the south is less technical but requires downscrambling low angle slab then routefinding through boulders near the start of the gully which is very bushy (approximately 30 minutes either way).

Location

The route starts right of the dike that runs the mid-span of the less than vertical, southeastern arête near the middle of the crag. The start of the arête is undercut, therefore the first two short pitches traverse right-to-left up to the arête. The face climbing is scattered with chickenheads, some more secure than others, especially if the rock is wet.

Protection

Green Alien to 3 cams (1 each), draws, & slings.


Routes in The Obscure Wall