Brain Cramp Buttress

It should be known that I am adding this route description as historical data, but for safety reasons, it should be noted that this route was installed in 1983 using ¼ inch buttonheads, Star nails, and Leeper hangers. Therefore it should not be climbed until the hardware is upgraded. If someone beats me to it, the FFA team would like a one-for one replacement without the addition of extra bolts or belays to preserve the original style of the first ascent. Once this is accomplished, I will update this section. Thank you.

As described by Peter Williams many years ago in a memo to Ken Trout for his South Platte guidebook, our infamous death buttress in Lost Creek is on an obscure rock we called “The Obscure Wall.” This buttress is the most obvious feature of the rock. Nine bolts were placed on the first two pitches, including one two bolt hanging belay. All bolts were placed from free stances while certain death was nibbling away at the holds. The first pitch is steep and scary, with the bolts closer together, but they were poor even on the first ascent. I’m sure they wouldn’t hold much 35 years later. The second pitch is a bit lower angle but very runout, as we were running out of bolts. There is also a third pitch, easy and short but unprotected face climbing. A 165 foot rope is essential on this route, especially to get to the belay at the end of the second lead. This belay is totally natural with three tied-off horns at a small ledge with no cracks (and I was out of bolts when I got there, too, so it was a gift to find these anchors). I had to pull our 165 foot rope tight to reach this belay. Please don’t consider the original bolts the least bit safe. Doing the route now without replacing the bolts will essentially be a free solo on shitty rock.

From the original topo: this wall is located approximately 1/2 mile WNW of the "Shafthouse", above the west side of Lost Creek.

From the original topo: bring a 165' rope, a couple of small Friends for the 2nd pitch, and long runners to tie off knobs for the 2nd belay.