Projectile Dysfunction

Sometimes the choss cleansing does not go as planned, and the projectiles may go astray. Thankfully no first ascensionists were harmed in this endeavor. That being said, Josh has sick moves when a piece of granite is ricocheting towards his dome.

This new line combines 4.5 pitches of good climbing between

Meltdown

and

Perpetual Doubt

. Currently it finishes at the end of pitch 3 on

Meltdown

. If you bring some gear and a 70m rope, you should finish on the last two pitches of

Meltdown

.

P1 - 5.11a. Start on brown hangers just right of

Perpetual Doubt

. This short pitch is my least favorite of the route. Balance up into a circular pod, and then pull a bouldery crux move to a grassy ledge, 40 feet.

P2 - 5.10-. The climbing improves as you step up left past a bush, and then slab your way back right above your belayer. Continue right to a broken, right-facing corner that climbs quite well. Finish by angling up and left to another grassy ledge with a horn and small roof above, 50 feet.

P3 - 5.10. It is getting better as you step up right to latch onto a flake, and make your past a bolt to an obvious horn. Use a long runner to sling this horn as a piece of pro. Above you is about 40 feet of really fun rails, horns, and flakes with a balancy slab move to the anchor. A word of advice: clip the last bolt, and move down and left to an easy corner that takes you to the anchor, 60 feet.

P3.5 - 5.0. Do an easy leftward traverse with a bolt, then pass the P2 anchor of

Perpetual Doubt

. Keep going a bit further left to yet another grassy ledge to an anchor with one brown hanger and one gray hanger. This is where you want to be, the anchor a bit farther left is for the

Perpetual...

crux pitch, 40 feet.

P4 - 5.11. This is an excellent pitch that takes a line up past an easy corner then up right to a fantastic flake that angles down right to up left. Pull up into a stance, and then tackle the route crux above. After pulling those moves, the angle lessens, and you will see the

Meltdown

anchor that is your goal, 70 feet.

From here, you can continue up two more pitches to top out on

Meltdown

. You need the rack listed on the

Meltdown

page, or rap from here.

From this anchor, it is important to rappel to an anchor 15 feet below the grassy ledge. If not, your single 70m rope will not reach the ground, and you may become a projectile.

Start on brown hangers immediately right of

Perpetual Doubt

. Currently there is a rock/log stance built for your convenience.

For these described pitches, a combination of 14 draws/runners will suffice. If you are finishing on

Meltdown

, then I recommend a couple medium nuts and a red C3 and single set of #0.5 to #2 Camalots.