The Other Road

The Other Road starts about 20' right of

Squid Kid

and is a 3-pitch classic! All 3 pitches require some gear placements but are mostly bolted...some tricky route finding involved....

P1: 5.10c, 100'. Start where the large tree is closest to the wall, climb the left-facing corner (3"cam placement) to gain the bolts. THE OTHER ROAD is the leftmost of 3 new pitches just right of

Squid Kid

. Step left and up past 4 bolts to 2-3 gear placements (thin), then 5 more bolts to the 2-bolt anchor. To continue the next 2 pitches of THE OTHER ROAD, it's best to step down right and traverse (20') over to the

Trooper Traverse

"alcove" 3-bolt belay.

P2: 5.11a, 110'. Step up right of the "

Trooper Traverse

" to climb gear and bolts up through the dramatic "apex roof" and up past 2 more overhangs to the 2-bolt anchor. The best pitch of the route!! Exciting!

P3: 5.10c, 90'. Step right of the anchor to start. Climb bolts and gear(thin) leftward to the top 2-bolt anchor. The "

Mother Lode

" finishes 20' to the right....

THE OTHER ROAD starts right of

Squid Kid

and left of the

Trooper Traverse

. After P1, step down right and traverse(20') over to the

Trooper Traverse

"alcove" 3-bolt anchor. P2 and P3 parallel 10'-20' to the left of the

Mother Lode

the rest of the way. Three 30 meter rappels for the descent. From the top of P2, rappel down (30m) to the

Trooper Traverse

"alcove" and then to the ground (30m) from there....

All 3 pitches require some gear placements but are mostly bolted. A good mix of nuts, cams from blue TCU-3/4", and one 3" cam should suffice. One 60m or 70m rope and 15 quickdraws are required. 2-bolt anchors at the top of each pitch.