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Peak Mountain 3

Mother Lode

FA. Wes Peterson, D Trimm 93'
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Scramble up easy ramps/ledges to cleft marking start of

Trooper Traverse

. This is the eye-attracting, left-facing dihedral/crack system on the right side of the face.

P1. Face climb straight up with sparse protection (small nuts, Aliens) mixed with 3 bolts. 2nd bolt protects the traversing crux. Finish to ledge from last bolt going either right (harder) or left. 2-bolt belay anchor with chains.

P2. Layback/jam flake to ledge midway with bolt. Move up into left-angling crack with good jams and cam placements (up to #4 Friend), turn the corner and up to a bolt, then traverse face holds back right and up to a large sloping ledge with 3-bolt belay (~120 feet).

P3. Clip multiple bolts angling left to crux layback/sidepull on small holds well-protected by bolt, then continue up and back right to ledge with tree.

Descent: One-rope rap to 2nd-pitch belay ledge. Two-rope rap to start of route. Scramble to ground.

Location

This is located up and right from the trailhead. It starts to the right of

Trooper Traverse

.

Protection

Standard rack to #4 Camalot. Longs slings are useful.