The Hansen Project

ON LION'S CREEK NORTH DOME: The first two pitches are from an existing route of which the name is unknown as well as the name of the guy who put it up. I have met him but can't remember his name. The next 4 pitches are a new variation to what he put up several years ago. The crux of the route is the end of pitch one and through pitch two.

Approach: Park at the upper parking lot and look up at the large wall to the north with the large overhanging prow on it's left side. This is the Lion's Creek North Dome. Down and right of the prow there are two large flake/cracks next to each other that run vertically up the face. The flake/crack running to the right is the first pitch.

Descent: pick your way down the slabs to the east of the route(Right side) until you hit the boulder fields or rappel from tree to tree down. Once on the talus continue making your way back to the parking lot, which can be seen the entire climb. It's best to stay on the talus as long as possible aiming for the lot to avoid the bushwhack and ticks.

TRAD only and TRAD anchors with the first pitch having the only bolted belay station on the route.

Approach:

Head north from the parking lot up through the boulder field, dead reckoning toward the base of the obvious flake/crack system. Once the base of the slab is reached walk a few yards to the right to gain access to a small ramp and less steep slab so that you can walk back left to the base of the route.

Pitch 1: (Apprx 50-55m)(Gear: MC #0-BD C4 #2) (5.10 R)

Head up along the right side flake(Will be climbing with your left side against it. Protect in the crack along its base. It starts off finger sized then flares to hands/fist and back to fingers then tips then pretty much disappears at the crux for 20-30 feet. The crack is flared but takes gear nicely. Just plug it in a ways. The feet are what you would expect for steep slab. Smearing with the occassional crystal or shallow pocket to stand on. The crux does not protect well. Move through and run out the crux until the crack/flake turns right and becomes a roof. You will be roughly 25 feet from the belay at this point. Plug one last bomber piece under the roof, pull the roof and run it out to the belay on easy slab. Breathe. The scariest part is almost over. You now have enough time to recompose yourself before the scarier second pitch.

Pitch 2: (Apprx 15-20m) (Gear: What gear?)(5.10+ X)

Start directly above and right of the belay and pull an awkward roof/ledge thing onto steep slab and move into a shallow and very wide open book in a tiny seam that has a tinge of green growing in it. You are welcome to look for a place to put gear, but good luck. Your best bet would have been to clip a draw into the bolt at the belay, now 15 feet below you. Move up and stem into the open book on mostly insecure holds. There is a small Spruce bush hanging over the top of the pitch right where you need to go. There are a couple good holds right around it. Getting around it is the fun part. Plug something big in to the right and below it since you are now run out a long ways. (Note: There is a sling around the Spruce. Don't clip into it. You will die.) Pull up and over the edge to the left and walk 20 feet over to a horizontal crack on a large grassy/poopy ledge. Build an anchor and bring your partner up(who will think you have the biggest balls ever for leading pitch 2. Watch his/her face when they peak over the ledge at you.)

Pitch 3: (Apprx 55-60m) (Gear: BD C4 .4-4) (5.0 -5.3 RX)

Walk right of the belay and follow the ledge around the corner in a traversing fashion. Bring your garden tools and be prepared to dig out the crack at your feet to find placements unless you're cool with 100 foot whippers. Follow this crack/ledge until you see a blank slab above you and a roof beginning to form. Climb 15 feet above the ledge and build an anchor. You will be nearing the end of the rope at this point. Listen well for your belayer yelling at you from out-of-sight around the corner. Enjoy the views from here.

Pitch 4: (Apprx 40m) (Gear: MC #1 to BD C4 #3) (5.8+)

Not the hardest pitch, but one of the most fun due to it not being as balls out scary and the movements are cool. Climb down from the belay back to the Pitch 3 ledge and continue traversing toward the roof. Move along the roof using small delicate crimps and rails with polished smooth granite under foot. Placements are abundant. Get down under the roof and reach up arms-length and plug gear in where ever you like. There are a variety of options for size and position. This is both fun to lead and clean. Note: If there is going to be water on the route, this is the place. April had streams running out from under the roof which made for entertaining foot work in order to keep the toes dry. Mid summer had some water here as well but it was easily stepped over. Once the roof starts to peter out, move up at where a spruce sits on top of the ledge. Go left of it and move up about 30 feet to a large block with another horizontal crack in it and set up a gear anchor. There is plenty of plant life and marmot poop here so watch your step.

Pitch 5: (Apprx 40m) (Gear BD C4 .3-4) (5.8+)

Climb down from the belay to a horizontal ledge and delicately move across it. There is a place for one piece about 3/4 of the way across this open space. Here there are two options. Follow the ledge until it ends and a smooth over hanging bulge blocks the way around the corner or drop down about 5 feet and go to a nice looking "v" with a bomber looking crack. Either way, you are aiming for the large tree hanging over the cliff right past a knife edge looking rock. The first path is sketchy with no gear other than a ways behind you over a no fall zone on lead or top rope. The low road has several fantastic placements. The choice is yours depending on how brave you feel after the previous 4 pitches. Once at the tree keep walking up the ramp/ledge to the next big tree. Plug something big into the dirty crack for a little piece of mind considering the fall would kill you. Sling the tree and belay your partner over.

Pitch 6: (Apprx 30m) (Gear: Eh, who needs it?)

This final pitch is more of a scramble upward to a narrow gully across a dirty slab and over some roots/ledges. We chose to stay roped up but it may not be necessary. Better to be safe than sorry. Once in the 3 foot wide gully, this begins a trail (probably Mountain Goat trail) and the end of the climb.

Descent: pick your way down the slabs to the east of the route(Right side) until you hit the boulder fields or rappel from tree to tree down. Once on the talus continue making your way back to the parking lot, which can be seen the entire climb. It's best to stay on the talus as long as possible aiming for the lot to avoid the bushwhack and ticks.