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Peak Mountain 3

White Slabbath

FA Unknown
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

White Slabbath climbs the upper half of the left side of the dome, south of Lions creek.

The climb could be accessed via two ways, only one has been done at the time of this post. The FA was done by first climbing The Gateway (2 pitch route) and then scrambling up and over to WS. See photo below. This route could be climbed in as little as 3 pitches, or as many 6 (not counting pitches of climbs below).

70 m rope required!

P1 - An optional short pitch at the end of the scramble. Decide when to rope up as you leave the low angle slabs and alders, heading for the first bolted anchor of WS. A few pieces of protection are available. 5.6

P2 - slab crux. Twin seems, and 3 bolts, provide just enough to keep the slab moderate as you start this pitch. Follow the undercling flake out right and turn the corner, now seeing the bulk of the route. Climb the large lie back corner, protected by gear l, until making the rightward traverse across the slab as you approach the anchor. 5.9 - 100 feet

P3 - the first of two pitches climbing the crack that splits the white slab. A seem (1 bolt) turns to a widening finger crack and continues as such, finally reaching thin hands before the anchor. 5.7 - 100 feet

P4 - follow the now hand sized crack up and through the bulge to belay ledge. This pitch could easily be linked with pitch 3 for a mega pitch up the entire crack splitting the slab. Call dibs now! 5.5 - 50 feet

P5 - 4th class with little protection available.100 ft.

P6 -4th class with little protection. Easily linked With p5

There are two descent options. The entire route/approach could be rappelled and reversed. The other option (if you leave nothing at the base) is to rap towards the gulley from the lowest bolted anchor of WS. A hidden two bolt anchor over near the gulley allows you to rappel into it and you could scramble down the gulley, beware of a few cruxes here as well.

Location

Follow directions for The Gateway or look at the photos below to assist with approach.

Protection

5 bolts, mostly traditional gear. All anchors are two-bolt anchors.