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Peak Mountain 3

The Gateway

FA Zach Holt & Megan Holt
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This 2 pitch, mixed protection route is meant to be a  gateway For adventures above it.

Pitch 1 - Traditional gear protects the bottom and top of this pitch, the top being a short, but stellar hidden chimney you cannot see from the base of the route. Thoughtful slab climbing will get you there. 5.8 , 90 feet

Pitch 2 - up the slab to a 2 bolt anchor above the last ledge. 5.5 , 100+ feet

If rappelling down from the second pitch, a 70m rope still dies not reach the set of anchors above pitch 1. You'll have to walk across the slabby ledge that separates the 2 pitches. Knot the ends of your rope.

2 bolt anchor atop the chimney

Location

This wall is the obvious base of the left side of the massive dome south of the creek and separated by a large gully.

The base of this route can easily be spotted from near the Parking lot or trail, as it is located near the impressive dark colored roof.

Trying to follow this approach beta could be the difference in fighting alders for 40 feet rather than 400.

From the parking area, follow the main trail headed to the popular water slides for a several hundred yards. At the widest part of the trail, follow The obvious trails that lead down to the creek flowing over granite slabs. (Popular swimming hole). Follow the creek back west down a few small falls and pools. At what looks to be the last little waterfall and hole, cross the creek and walk through brush aiming for the small talus field. Near the top of this small talus field, cut back hikers left into the alders. Enter 20 feet or so and turn uphill heading for a gathering of 3 or 4 spruce trees making an island among the alders. Aiming for this little group of evergreens marks a hidden dry creek bed that cuts through the alders so that you don't have to. This also leads directly to the base of this route. Good luck.

Protection

A single rack from micros to fists and draws.